Camino de la Costa - places of interest from Porto to Vigo

Walking the Camino?  I live on it.  So this is a brief insight into the coast between Porto and Vigo and some of its highlights.

Porto - typical tiled streets

In the last couple of years I have witnessed a huge increase in peregrinos (pilgrims) walking past my house in Saiáns, from 3 - 4 a month to (a guess) 20 - 30 a day in peak season.   So much so, that our local community centre has converted one of its rooms into a mini albergue (hostel).

So why has it become so popular?  Well, probably largely due to Ryanair and Easyjet expanding their flights to Porto and Vigo, and the Coastal Route is apparently the easiest.

Porto is a marvellous city and one to which I'm sure many pilgrims will return.  Nowadays it is heaving with tourists practically year-round.  And why not? It's lively, quaint, cheap, has great food and wine, lots of stunning churches and art deco buildings, trams, varied nightlife and the River Douro quayside is great fun.

Viana do Castelo alleyway

The coast from Porto to Vigo is spectacular, with some stunning sandy beaches, wild rocky stretches, with a backdrop of rugged, pine-clad mountains.  North of Porto you will pass through charming Matosinhos, which has the lovely church of Bom Jesus in its crumbly old centre, and Rua Herois de França, a street lined with restaurants grilling freshly caught fish on their pavement bbqs.  (BTW. I have been told be several pilgrims that navigating out of the city can be complicated.) So then Vila do Conde with its medieval aqueduct, narrow streets and lovely church, Povoa is something like a Portugese version of Blackpool (without the tack), elegant Viana do Castelo, sleepy Caminha, and heaps of gorgeous beaches.  Be sure to visit the cakeshops, try the natas (amazing custard tartlets), the outstanding coffee and the superlative Vinho Verde Branco.

Vila do Conde aqueduct which took water to the convent

 

Most Coastal pilgrims will cross from Caminha in Portugal to La Guardia in Galicia via the ferry, which is a fun 15 minute ride with lovely views.   The ferry is affected by the tide by the way and is cancelled if there is a very los tide.
La Guardia is famous for its seafood, the quaint old port being lined with excellent restaurants serving fresh fish.  The outskirts are modern and rather grim however.
Although pilgrims probably won't have time, regular tourists should go up  Santa Tecla mountain, where an impressive sprawling Celtic settlement spreads out, and from the hilltop you have spectacular views of the estuary of the River Minho and the dramatic Portuguese coast.

The Rio Minho separates Portugal and Galicia

Santa Tecla Celtic Castro

Next up is Santa Maria de Oia, one of my favourite villages, with a beautiful 12th Century monastery, (although it is closed, you can visit the church).  This traditional fishing village has become a popular place for Sunday lunch; some of the restaurants tend on the pricey side.  The community centre (centro cultural) which is just past the monastery, across the port and on the hill on the right, is a great place for a

Santa Maria Monastery
(taken from outside the community centre)

cheap lunch with marvellous views. The Camino takes you along a wonderful stretch of wild coastline as you head towards Porto do Mougas and on to Baiona (there are several hostals en route, NB: hostal with an A does not mean hostel, rather a small cheap hotel).

wild coast of Mougas

way out of Santa Maria

As you enter Baiona, you are presented with the Montemaior fortress up on the hill, which is now a very good parador hotel.    The small old town is atmospheric during the day, with a couple of lovely old churches,  and jumping with revellers on warm summer nights. The town's main claim to fame is that the first of Christopher Columbus' fleet arrived here bringing news of the New World; a replica of the carabela Pinta is docked in the marina.  Baiona is known for its top quality seafood restaurants.  If you are staying in town, you might like to stroll around the path that goes around the fortress affording great views of the bay. Also worth noting that Baiona boasts a pleasing number of excellent ice cream shops.

Foz de Ramallosa

It is a short hop around the Foz (estuary) from Baiona to Ramallosa, where you can cross the pretty medieval bridge, before heading west on the Literal Route to continue up to the fabulous, mile-long Playa America beach and the fishing village of Panxon, or straight ahead on the main road towards Vigo, or left to take a quieter camino through country lanes behind Nigran (although it also involves an industrial estate), and on to Vigo via the shady, verdant Saians monte and Coruxo.  Take the main road if you are tired.

Saians Neighbour's Association, located next to the church which you can see on the left from the main road, opened up to pilgrims in 2017.  They have a small bar, which in summer opens early morning, and O Bolo bar and restaurant is next door, which is open every day except Thursday pm and offers a homecooked Pilgrim's lunch for 5€. 

Baiona Fortress

Playa America

North of Panxon is Patos beach, extremely popular with surfers, and then there are a string of pretty coves and beaches as you make your way along the Ria towards the city of Vigo.  Both Patos and Panxon are lively and good places to eat well, and more cheaply than Baiona.

The outskirts of Vigo are not inspiring, with the exception of Bouzas, but there are delights to be had in the city. Leaving the city, you will take the Senda de Agua (Water path) from where you have great views of the Ria.

 !Buen Camino!

See my blog on Vigo for an overview of the city.