Rome in 2 days - whirlwind tour March 2019

Last week I was sent to Rome on a training course, so I took the opportunity to do a bit of sightseeing.  However, with such a ridiculous number of sights to see, how do you prioritise?

Altare della Patria in Piazza Venezia

Well I arrived late Wednesday afternoon, dumped my bag in the hotel near Trastevere train station and got on the tram. Public transport is excellent and cheap.  I recommend buying the 7€ 24 hour pass, otherwise it is 1.35€ a ride.  You buy tickets in machines in the station or in the news kiosks and tobacco shops.  You must remember to validate the ticket by inserting it into the yellow machines on the vehicle, or you risk a 120€ fine.

Tram 8 goes from Trastevere to Piazza Venezia, which is the central hub of Rome, and is dominated by the quite spectacular Altare della Patria monument.  Next to it is the remains of the Trayan Forum, which looks more impressive at night when it is lit up.  From here I walked to the Trevi Fountain took a photo, then left.  Then I headed to the Basillica of Santa Maria Maggiore.  There are interesting churches, towers, monuments and ruins on practically every street corner by the way! Irritatingly it had just closed doors to visitors when I got there, but its facade is very impressive by night.  I continued walking in the direction of the Colosseum, which has been cleaned since I last saw it, and I must say it was more atmospheric when it was blackened. I recommend doing a walk at night as it is much quieter and you can enjoy the sights in relative peace.  

The Colosseum

Trayan Forum

I ended up back where I started and headed back to Trastevere.

Now Trastevere neighbourhood is just over the river, is full of windy narrow streets, and has became the trendy place to go out.  There are lots of cool paces to eat and drink, but at peak time all of them have queues to get in.  The food is reasonable prices, around 10€ for pizza or pasta, but beware the price of drinks, typically 7€ for a glass of wine and 5€ a pint of lager around the Piazza Santa Maria, which is a gorgeous church by the way.  I wandered a little way south down the main street and found a great little place which was much more affordable.  

Next morning, I went to the Vatican Museum, having previously bought a ticket online for 21€.  Despite stories of endless queues, I was able to walk straight in and walk comfortably around, with the exception of the Sistine Chapel which was like a tin of sardines.  This huge museum is a converted palace,  and requires a lot of stamina.  I was there for 3 hours, walking constantly.  I don't know if I'm thick, but I found the layout confusing, despite having a map.  It is a must-see though if you are an art lover, and has some surprises, for example a great section on Ancient Egyptian artefacts, complete with a mummy. Take water. There is a cafe inside, but I would guess there are queues.  

 

As you can see, there is something for everyone!  I would be wary of taking kids and elderly folk simply because of the physical effort required to get round the museum, and there's not a lot of seats.

From the museum I wandered around to St. Peter's Square, which is fab.  I didn't go into the church as there was a queue about 300 metres long.  Instead I decided to go to Piazza del Popolo and visit Santa Maria Popolo, which is plain outside, dark inside, but has some lovely artwork.  Via del Corso, a busy shopping street full of fashion brand outlets, runs from the piazza to Piazza Venezia.

Next stop was Santa Maria Maggiore which has gorgeous mosaics. visible from the street.  I paid 4€ for the 20 min guided tour, which allows you five minutes to view the mosaics.  The church is free though and the interior mosaics are well worth seeing.  Just across the street, hidden in an alley, you should pop into Santa Prassede, which has beautiful mosaics and frescoes, unlike any I have seen elsewhere.  

mosaic in Santa Prassede

 

 

 

 The next day I only had time for one visit, so I chose the wonderful Museo Nazzionale, which is just next to Termini Station. I was blown away by the mosaics and frescoes salvaged from Roman villas.  They are stunning. 

I whizzed round the three floors in an hour and a half, and could have spent longer.  There is a stunning exhibition of sculpture, some with mesmerising light shows.  In fact this museum was the highlight of my short trip.

I would love to go back to Rome, especially if I can do it out out of season again.  There are tonnes of things to see, the Romans are friendly and helpful, and the food and drink is great. What more could you want?