Apparently not many foreigners visit San Miguel in the high season, and even fewer in the Halloween holiday when we went.
Everyone has heard of the Azores, but like me probably have only a vague idea of their location. They are a group of small volcanic islands pretty much miles from anywhere, in the Atlantic Ocean, but only two and a half hours from Porto and only four hours from Boston, (yes, the USA! ) We flew with TAP which was more expensive than Ryanair but a much better schedule, and a very comfortable journey with a drink and snack included. (172€)
Renting a car is essential, and the best price I found was with Magic Island, who are located near the airport. They brought our car to meet us and were extremely efficient and friendly. My only complaint would be that we were charged 15€ for cleaning even though it was pretty clean, but having only paid 30€ for 4 days car hire, I didn't mind.
Autumn weather
Our trip was 30 Oct - 3 November. The daytime temperature was 19-20 degrees, but the nights were chilly. When we arrived it was warm and sunny and people were in shorts and t-shirts, so I felt optimistic. On the second day there was what I would describe as a hurricane. It rained cats and dogs, the wind was 100kms/hr, thunder and lightning, a power cut, and a pretty miserable day because we went to Sete Cidades that day and the trip was ruined. The fog was so thick in the mountains that visibility was only a few metres at times. After that, the weather was mainly cloudy, but not unpleasant, with the odd glimpse of sun until Sunday, which was warm and sunny again, but the day we flew home! The sea was just about warm enough for swimming, although we didn't.
Ponta Delgada
Our first two nights were booked in Ponta Delgada, and then we moved to Caloura. I will say that there is no need to change location for logistic reasons as you can travel from anywhere on the island to the airport in an less than an hour. We stayed in the marvellous Hotel Lince, just ten minutes walk from the old town. It's fair to say that the place could do with a make over, but we had a gorgeous room on the 6th floor with a panoramic view of the coast, full buffet breakfast included, for 40€ a night, (half the high season price). I chose this place because it also boasts a free indoor pool, sauna and jacuzzi. Bearing in mind how changeable the weather is, it was the perfect choice, and I regretted not spending the whole trip there.
The town, population of 70,000, is quaint, small and sleepy, at least it was the Wednesday and Thursday when we were there. At night the narrow streets were fairly dead. It didn't feel touristy at all. There is a pretty good range of bars and restaurants to satisfy most tastes, and I found plenty of vegetarian options.
As far as things to visit go, there isn't an abundance in the town. However, I loved the Museum of the College, which hosts a few lovely medieval paintings and a marvellously ornate church, lined with azulejo tiles. Mercado Graça, the indoor fruit and veg market, is well worth a wander, if only to see what a market used to look like in the old days. It's open on Sundays too. The Ananas Pineapple farm just a couple of kms east is a surprisngly interesting 15 mins visit if you have nothing better to do. The Parish church, San Sebastian, is in the main square and has an ornate facade, but I didn't find the interior interesting. Down in the port, there is a huge swimming pool (closed in Oct), as well as an area of sea which is reserved for swimmers, and the sea was full of them.
The local "Especial" beer and wines are highly recommended!
You really must try a cheese board and sample the cheeses from the different islands, each of which has a distinct flavour and texture. Pineapple features heavily on the menu: jam, sauce, juice, liqueur, sugared, grilled, stewed, baked, with meat and fish. The Graça Market has tons of them! White beans are used in many dishes, including in cakes and tarts. One of the most delicious things I tried on the trip was a bean and honey tart in the Especial Brewery bar.
Autumn weather
Our trip was 30 Oct - 3 November. The daytime temperature was 19-20 degrees, but the nights were chilly. When we arrived it was warm and sunny and people were in shorts and t-shirts, so I felt optimistic. On the second day there was what I would describe as a hurricane. It rained cats and dogs, the wind was 100kms/hr, thunder and lightning, a power cut, and a pretty miserable day because we went to Sete Cidades that day and the trip was ruined. The fog was so thick in the mountains that visibility was only a few metres at times. After that, the weather was mainly cloudy, but not unpleasant, with the odd glimpse of sun until Sunday, which was warm and sunny again, but the day we flew home! The sea was just about warm enough for swimming, although we didn't.
Ponta Delgada
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| The town gate and San Sebastian church in the background |
Our first two nights were booked in Ponta Delgada, and then we moved to Caloura. I will say that there is no need to change location for logistic reasons as you can travel from anywhere on the island to the airport in an less than an hour. We stayed in the marvellous Hotel Lince, just ten minutes walk from the old town. It's fair to say that the place could do with a make over, but we had a gorgeous room on the 6th floor with a panoramic view of the coast, full buffet breakfast included, for 40€ a night, (half the high season price). I chose this place because it also boasts a free indoor pool, sauna and jacuzzi. Bearing in mind how changeable the weather is, it was the perfect choice, and I regretted not spending the whole trip there.
The town, population of 70,000, is quaint, small and sleepy, at least it was the Wednesday and Thursday when we were there. At night the narrow streets were fairly dead. It didn't feel touristy at all. There is a pretty good range of bars and restaurants to satisfy most tastes, and I found plenty of vegetarian options.
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| Museum of the College, inside is wonderful |
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| Swimming in the port |
Food and drink
The local "Especial" beer and wines are highly recommended!
You really must try a cheese board and sample the cheeses from the different islands, each of which has a distinct flavour and texture. Pineapple features heavily on the menu: jam, sauce, juice, liqueur, sugared, grilled, stewed, baked, with meat and fish. The Graça Market has tons of them! White beans are used in many dishes, including in cakes and tarts. One of the most delicious things I tried on the trip was a bean and honey tart in the Especial Brewery bar.
Shopping
Most of the touristy shops offer local cheese, wine, sweets and liqueurs. All of which are delicious. Small boutiques are abundant, owned by young local designers as far as I could tell. The Parque Atlantico shopping centre is a couple of kms out of town and has all the typical shops you find anywhere. Perhaps somewhere to take refuge on a rainy day.
Sete Cidades and Mosteiros
Most of the touristy shops offer local cheese, wine, sweets and liqueurs. All of which are delicious. Small boutiques are abundant, owned by young local designers as far as I could tell. The Parque Atlantico shopping centre is a couple of kms out of town and has all the typical shops you find anywhere. Perhaps somewhere to take refuge on a rainy day.
Sete Cidades and Mosteiros
It is a suprisingly short (30 mins),very scenic drive up to the lakes via narrow roads lines with hydrangeas. However, true to type, although we had set off in bright sunshine and shorts, as we went higher up, the weather changed and we were enshrouded in fog, gale-force winds and lashing rain. Good job we had jumpers and anoraks in the car! Hugely disappointing though. We caught some glimpses of the lakes but admitted defeat and headed down to quaint Mosteiros. Down on the coast we re-encountered warm sun. It's mad! There's not a lot to the village, and the tide was out so the famed natural swimming pools were not evident. The coast is black and rocky, so rockhopper shoes would be recommendable if you fancy a dip.
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| the coastal route between Mosteiros and Ponta Delgada is stunning |
From Mosteiros we headed along the north coast to Ribera Grande, the second biggest town on the island. I can't say I felt over excited about it. It was cold and really windy so we skipped from place to place. The pretty church dominates the sleepy main square, and you can wander around the narrow streets leading off it. There is a swimming pool complex which we didnt get to see. I will check it out again in the future. Just a little further along the coast is the most famous sandy beach - Praia Formosa which has a lovely little bar with a garden from where you have lovely views. Although the sea was a bit choppy, a group of teenagers were playing in the sea. Definitely recommended for a lazy day of sunbathing, weather permitting.
Furnas
Next we headed to Furnas. (Everything is so close!) We found our way through the one way system to the Terra Nostra park and parked a few minutes walk away. The huge orange lake is certainly striking, and feels like warm soup when you enter. All very pleasant for a short time, but when you are sharing the water with a hundred other bathers, it's not exactly relaxing. We soaked for about 45 minutes then had a stroll around the gardens, which, being winter, didn't have a lot of flowers. It made the 8€ entrance seem pricey. Anyway, we then headed to the hot mud pools which are a couple of kilometres out of the village on the edge of Furnas lake. Here the locals cook their dinner overnight in a hole in the ground. The location in the valley is lovely, and there is a walk around the lake, which we didn't do as it was now dusk. Kayaks are available for hire. A van sells drinks and snacks; we enjoyed a beer sitting enjoying the gorgeous view, then headed back to the hotel.
The next day we tried to go to Calda Velha, the hot waterfall in the forest, but because of the bad weather, the area was too dangerous and closed to the public. :-( So, feeling disappointed, we decided to try the Dona Bela spa, which is fabulous. Much preferred it to Terra Nosa, but I have read that in high season it is packed. The 5 pools along the river, surrounded by exotic trees and flowers, all have water at a temperature of about 26-28 degrees. We spent about an hour and a half switching between pools. Definitely do this again.
Caloura
For our last 2 nights we rented a tiny house in the fishing village of Caloura, about 30 mins east of Ponta Delgada. Extremely authentic, peaceful, dramatic views, and a lovely bar/restaurant right on the rocky beach. There is an open air pool, which was closed for the winter (until May I think).
Furnas
Next we headed to Furnas. (Everything is so close!) We found our way through the one way system to the Terra Nostra park and parked a few minutes walk away. The huge orange lake is certainly striking, and feels like warm soup when you enter. All very pleasant for a short time, but when you are sharing the water with a hundred other bathers, it's not exactly relaxing. We soaked for about 45 minutes then had a stroll around the gardens, which, being winter, didn't have a lot of flowers. It made the 8€ entrance seem pricey. Anyway, we then headed to the hot mud pools which are a couple of kilometres out of the village on the edge of Furnas lake. Here the locals cook their dinner overnight in a hole in the ground. The location in the valley is lovely, and there is a walk around the lake, which we didn't do as it was now dusk. Kayaks are available for hire. A van sells drinks and snacks; we enjoyed a beer sitting enjoying the gorgeous view, then headed back to the hotel.
The next day we tried to go to Calda Velha, the hot waterfall in the forest, but because of the bad weather, the area was too dangerous and closed to the public. :-( So, feeling disappointed, we decided to try the Dona Bela spa, which is fabulous. Much preferred it to Terra Nosa, but I have read that in high season it is packed. The 5 pools along the river, surrounded by exotic trees and flowers, all have water at a temperature of about 26-28 degrees. We spent about an hour and a half switching between pools. Definitely do this again.
Caloura
For our last 2 nights we rented a tiny house in the fishing village of Caloura, about 30 mins east of Ponta Delgada. Extremely authentic, peaceful, dramatic views, and a lovely bar/restaurant right on the rocky beach. There is an open air pool, which was closed for the winter (until May I think).
We spend our last day in Ponta Delgada visiting the Pineapple farm, the church and strolling around the port. The messages from sailors painted on the path of the port are fascinating.
It was a marvellous trip; the locals are great, and the island is small but spectacular. I can't wait to go back! As it happens, we have booked to return in April. Will let you know how that goes.
Top tips: hire a car; take a range of clothes and footwear for all weathers; it is fast and easy to drive around the island, so staying in Ponta Delgada is a good idea.
It was a marvellous trip; the locals are great, and the island is small but spectacular. I can't wait to go back! As it happens, we have booked to return in April. Will let you know how that goes.
Top tips: hire a car; take a range of clothes and footwear for all weathers; it is fast and easy to drive around the island, so staying in Ponta Delgada is a good idea.
